Lyon may well be famed as a university city and commercial powerhouse, but for me it’s true claim to fame is as France’s foodie capital.
When it comes to gastronomy, Lyon is a city that stands out with its rich culinary heritage. Renowned for its traditional “bouchon” restaurants, where hearty and authentic Lyonnais cuisine is served, the city offers a delightful array of dishes. From the iconic coq au vin and quenelles to the indulgent praline tart, Lyon’s food scene is a journey through the heart of French culinary excellence.
Here’s how we did it last Summer.
The thriving Lyon “pub” scene
A university city goes hand in hand with pubs, bars and nightlife and it’s an easy stumble between establishments in Lyon.
We arrive late, mid week, but World Cup Rugby is still playing live on TVs and pubs in the old town literally have people spilling out onto the footpaths in revelry.
At the Big White the weekly special is popular with the young crowd – a dozen shot glasses served on a skateboard weaves it way from the bar to be eagerly downed by a group of boisterous students beside us. Several more were to follow before the night came to a close.
We also spent time with the rugby crowd at the King Arthur Pub and the Welsh Beer Bar. The beer and wine at both pubs was good and affordable, and they have great snacks menus which means you can spend all afternoon and into the evening grazing your way through a great pub feed. Which we did.
Get to know the city through a food walking tour
But remember Lyon is all about the food, in particular the bouchons. The gastronomy of Lyon was started by women, typically the cooks who were let go by the rich families of the silk trade when this industry declined. Deciding to open restaurants to earn a living, these women served up the simple, traditional food their families had eaten for generations that are now the hero dishes in bouchons.
But not all bouchons are created equal. More specifically, there are legit bouchons and those that exist for tourists.
The singular qualifier is certification by “Les Bouchons Lyonnais” , signifying the establishment follows traditional Lyonnaise practices. Look out for restaurants with this trademark sign – there are only about 20 in Lyon.
You can also expect traditional decor (rustic, cosy interiors with checked tablecloths), a decent selection of local wines that complements the cuisine and an owner operater, with a passion for showcasing Lyonnais culinary heritage.
On our first morning in Lyon we did a food walking tour booked through Viator, the “Do Eat Better Experience”. This gave us a great insight into the food history of Lyon, oriented us in the old town and took away some great tips for places to eat during the remainder of our stay.
We chose one with food and wine included, to get the full experience, finishing with a stop at a divine Limoncello outlet. We gorged on pork terrine (do not call it pate! Unless it’s on bread, then you can call it pate en croute!), saucisson, fresh bread, cheese and of course quenelle, that creamed fish in a crayfish sauce that’s so rich and delicious it’s nearly too much.
Our best dining memories from this trip were:
- Tetedoie – adjacent our hotel, Villa Maia, this is the perfect spot for a celebration or a romantic dinner. The views over Lyon are spectacular, the dishes are immaculate and there are a couple of options to suit the budget
- Le Cabaretier – sit outside in the sun and people watch, right by the puppet show clock, an ideal spot for a light lunch and a glass or two of rose
- Les Fines Gueilles – National Geogrpahic rates it one of the best bouchons in Lyon, as did our walking tour guide. I had the most sumptuous beef cheek there.
- Les Lyonnais – A classic bouchon, bring your appetite (like, skip breakfast and don’t make plans for dinner) and ensure you have enough time to move through each course, and some wine. The wait staff make great recommendations if you’re not sure which wine to match to your dishes. You’ll likely need a booking, tables out the front on the deck immerse you in people watching.
Exploring the Old Town
One of the best parts of the old town to explore is Fourviere. The “praying hill” is home to a roman ampitheatre and the Notre Dame Cathedral, both of which offer 360 degree views of Lyon and its surrounds. If you can beat the crowds (early morning or after sundown) you have the opportunity for some peaceful reflection, gazing out over this history city and its surrounds.
The Cathedral, whilst not as old as other churches in Lyon, is certainly grand and includes a few chapels where photos are not allowed as they are purely for prayer. It was in one such chapel where I found myself unintentionally dropping into prayer and received a whisper from God. Go figure.
Its from here you take the funicular down into the Old Town. Stop by the Lyon Cathedral which took over 300 years to build, sitting beside the oldest building in Lyon, from the 12th century.
Wander down narrow cobbled streets (Lyon has been UNESCO protected since 1998) and you’ll pass the birthplace of cinema, an industry invented by the Lumiere brothers, a Lyon family who owned a business with camera equipment back in the late 1800s. You can also visit the cinema museum there.
Further along is a small square on Rue De La Fronde with a puppet show encased clock tower, dating to 1808. If you time it right, you’ll see the full show at 12pm daily.
As you peek in windows and trail your way through the old town streets, keep an eye out for “Traboules” – heavy, old doors with brass plates at their centre or side. These doors open to secret covered passageways, short cuts to streets and lanes across the town, made for easy access and… covert nooks for lovers to steal a kiss? Maybe!
Shopping and the city of Lyon
Retail therapy, particularly outside of the old town, is abundant in Lyon. Heading to Rue de Brest, Rue de la Republique and surrounds you’ll find all your high street and luxury brands as well as French institutions such as Comptoirs des Cotonniers, Maje, Sandro and Sezane.
Where we stayed
Villa Maia sits grandly atop the hill of Fourviere, an intimate establishment where you’re quickly greeted by name by impeccable staff who readily offer recommendations to make your time in Lyon a memorable one.
The only problem staying at a hotel with sweeping views over the city is the climb to get there. It’s a short but steep and winding walk up and down to Fourviere (or you can take the funicular). However, with a little forward planning of your days, a lively walk in the mornings and a slow, languid stroll back at night is actually part of the experience!
This is the place for you if you love a little (or a lot) of luxury with the charm and friendliness of a boutique, rather than the large scale offerings of hotel chains. Rooms are spacious, the details matter and there indoor spa and pool is divine for soaking tired bodies after a busy day exploring the city.
the-well-club.com 